3. 3D printing#

This week, we learned how to use a 3D printer. We will print our model of module 2. But first you need to understand how to use PrusaSlicer that’s the boring part but no worries it’s really not so difficult. It’s all worth it in the end. Have fun ☺ !

3.1) Installation#

First, I had to install PrusaSlicer on my computer. It’s a slicing software designed for 3D printing. Slicing software is a crucial component in the 3D printing process, as it takes a 3D model (typically in STL format) and generates the G-code, which is a set of instructions that tells the 3D printer how to create the object layer by layer.

The file formats recognized by the slicer are .STL and .OBJ. So you have to convert your file. I used OpenScad and here’s how I converted my file into an STL document :

Convert into an STL file

3.2) G-code preparation#

I advise you to follow these steps 👇

GOOD LUCK !

1) Import file#

In the slicer, you can import your files by clicking the Add button or dragging the files into the slicer.

Import files

2) Model Orientation#

If possible, orient your design so that the largest flat surface is in contact with the tray. The easiest way is to click on the Position on Surface and then select the surface on the model.

3) Select printer#

In our case, you have to choose this printer :

printer name choice

If you don’t have this printer name, no stress, you can just follow these simple steps :

  • Click Add/Remove Printers

  • Search for the matching model

  • Check the box 0.4mm nozzle

  • Click the End button

4) Filament Selection#

Careful! Filaments based on ABS, ASA or PS emit harmful gases during printing. It is forbidden to use them â›” !

You have to select this one :

5) Layer Height#

By default, the layer height is 0.2mm. For very large parts, select 0.3mm.

6) The supports#

The supports lengthen the printing time and are sometimes difficult to remove. You can use them if they are really necessary.

In the slicer, you have 4 options: - None (default): Use only for rooms without overhangs and with small bridges

  • On-the-top brackets only: avoids having brackets that start in the room

  • Only for support generators: with this option, you can choose where to put supports by adding a shape in the desired place.

  • Anywhere: Add media wherever needed On the Print Settings tab, on the Media page.

My design is a round object, so I thought I had to add support all around my 3D model like this :

But my friend told me that I could print my design without any supports. I just had to change the orientation.

no support

7) Filling#

By default, the fill density is 15%. It’s a good compromise between speed and print solidity. Select a fill between 0% and 35%. Above 35%, you no longer gain strength. It would be a waste of time and a waste of material.

8) G-code verification and export#

Click the Trim Now button at the bottom right. You can then see an estimate of the printing time. If the printing time is too long, you can still change settings such as layer height or fill. It took 59 mins to print my design.

If everything is ok, click on the Export G-code button. Save the G-code file to an SD card in a folder in your name.

3.3) Printing steps#

  • Check that the installed filament matches the one given in the slicer
  • Clean the tray
  • Insert the SD card into the control panel
  • Chose the file that you want to print
  • Use the round button to select your G-code file from the list

Wait until the pre-heating and calibration are complete to see if the first layer adheres well to the platter.

3.4) Tests#

To be able to fit the 2 pieces together, we had to do a different test. We tested different sizes for the holes of the tail: 2.2, 2.25, 2.35. And finally after the fourth try we got it right. Here’s the 3MF format of my final design.

Louis tried to make a twisted tale like this. For the second picture, it’s the tail with the supports.

For better result, we made a simple vertical tail.

3.6) The fun part 😆#